Greatest Hiker, Worst ‘Shwacker

Remains of the old swimming pool along the stream below the former Camp Kewanzee.

We picked this pretty-easy section of Appalachian Trail, with its short connectors to the Blue Ridge Parkway, in order to do some poking around at the former site of Camp Kewanzee, which was operated from 1926 to 1950, and had its 500-acre territory shrunk in 1939 when the parkway people came along and told owners Gus and Julia Welch that a bit more than 100 acres of their land was going to be needed for the new roadway.

The walk north was easy, the first part of the exploration was easy, lunch was not just easy but warm and t’riffic in the sun, but then…

But then The Greatest Day Hiker Of Them All was called upon to do a little of what she just does not care for. Which started out OK, since we had a map from the days of the property transfer back in ’39.

But when we got to the point where it said on the old map “Abandoned Trail,” and I started us up what it mighta/coulda once been, The Day Hiker began to get quickly skeptical. Her comments proceeded along these lines.

1. “Well, if it was abandoned 70 years ago, what do you suppose it is now, Kurt?”

2. “This isn’t right, Kurt, there’s just nothing in here.”

3. “Where’s the stream, Kurt? We’re supposed to be along a stream!”

4. “Gaaaa! Where are we?! This is how people get lost, Kurt!”

5. “I can’t stand this, Kurt! There could be snakes in here, all kinds of stuff, and we are just wandering around who knows where! I hate this!”

I could mention that she never uses my name in every sentence like that except when under duress or angry or both, a combination she began to achieve at #4 and reached fully at #5.

And it’s hard to keep your bushwhacking confidence up and your sort of male-hero-in-the-wilderness fantasy going when you’re getting questioned/challenged/excoriated pretty much every step of the way. Even when it’s only maybe half a mile tops as you head back up the mountainside you sloped down via the old road.

But once the old road was in sight, The Day Hiker reformed immediately and simply: “Sorry.”

And later: “It’s weird that the person you think of as greatest day hiker of all is no doubt the worst bushwhacker of all.”


Appalachian Trail from access point just above Cornelius Creek Shelter to Sunset Field overlook and then along forest road on the other side of the parkway; and back, about 7.5 miles.

How to get there: Blue Ridge Parkway to milepost 80.4 and limited parking at the forest road.

Map of Cornelius Creek and Apple Orchard Falls trails here.

You Might Also Like:

Kurt and Gail atop Cascade Mountain, Adirondacks New York, July 22

Kurt’s Hikes: The Last Dispatch

As I conclude my tenure with Blue Ridge Country magazine, which began with its founding in 1988, I will not conclude the weekly woods walks with The Greatest Day Hiker Of Them All.
The Greatest Day Hiker of Them All takes the jump at Arnold Valley Pool, June 16 (the family gave her a standing O).

20th Year of the Hiking Oddity: A Few New Spots and Lots of Family Along*

Most of our every-weekend hikes were local to our home in Roanoke, Virginia, and repeats of ones we’ve done many times, but there were a few new things along the way.
Gail stands atop Texas’s Palo Duro Canyon, October 4.

Kurt’s Hikes: June-December 2023

You look at seven months of hikes to close the 19th year of Gail and me walking every weekend and you start to see some patterns, most striking of which is the hikes are creeping toward shorter.
March 5: On the way up the Star Trail.

Kurt’s Hikes: Jan-May, 2023

One highlight of the walks of the first five months of the year was a semi-surprise for The Day Hiker when, upon our arrival at the base of the Star Trail up Roanoke Mountain, pretty much the whole dang family (all but the Raleigh family) was there.
b3c3b582-9d96-11ed-96a4-12b3f1b64877-IMG_1092

Kurt’s Hikes: Oct-Dec, 2022

Our fall hikes included lots of old favorites, a few urban walks and three great family hikes, with grandkids as young as 5 along for hikes of nearly eight miles total—in the cold!
Gail stays comfy in rain under the tarp at Carvins Cove, 9/11/22.

Kurt’s Hikes: Feb-Sept, 2022

Our hikes from February through September included our 18th annual Valentine’s Day visit to Apple Orchard Falls; and several firsts, including Virginia’s Channels and a section of the
d94a484e-8aa9-11ec-98a6-12f1225286c6-IMG_0733

New Catawba Greenway Hike

New wagon tent!

Kurt’s Hikes: June-July ’21

Some Urban, Some Mountain, One Beach
Gail makes her way up Brushy Mountain.

Hikes: April-May ’21

Devil's Marbleyard, A.T. and More
Kurt and Cookie head up the Little Rocky Row Trail, March 20, 2021

March 2021 Hikes

CALENDAR OF EVENTS