One of the topics I am asked about most is potty training. The joy of having a new puppy can slam right into the reality of stepping in a pee puddle.
Potty training is frustrating for you, and baffling for dogs. It doesn’t have to be. Let’s set ourselves up for success by teaching the dog what we want in ways that the dog understands. Though I’ll be using the word “puppy” to explain potty training, these tips apply to adult dogs as well. Also, I am going to talk about taking your dog outside to potty, but if you want to train your pup to use a pee pad inside, all these tips still work.
Tip 1: Know your puppy’s physical limitations. A pup’s bladder can only hold so much. Generally, a healthy pup can hold his bladder an hour for each month of age plus one when he’s calm. So if he’s two months old, he can go 3 hours. This tops out at about nine hours. Any stimulation like play shaves that time down. The key word is “healthy.” If your trained dog starts eliminating inside, please take them to the vet. It’s silly to be upset with them if they have a urinary tract infection. Illness overrides training every time.
Tip 2: Know your puppy’s schedule. Pups need to potty right after waking up, after a meal, after drinking water, after or even during play, after a training session, before bed time, and after or during a walk. Set up a routine that accommodates those needs. Anticipate. Watch for signals. He may circle, sniff the floor, arch his back, squat, become antsy, or try to find a private spot away from people. If he does any of these, scoop him up and get him outside, pronto.
Tip 3: Consistency is key. When taking your puppy outside to potty, go out the same door, walk to the same spot, and say the same cue word every time. Make sure the spot you’ve chosen is somewhere he feels safe enough to eliminate. Dogs feel vulnerable while pooping so choosing a spot next to a bush or wall provides a measure of safety and cover. Stand there being as boring as possible so they know you’re not there to play. When they eliminate, praise them warmly but quietly and go in.
If they did not potty within five minutes, take them back inside but leave the leash on them. In no more than one minute, you are going to take them back outside to the same spot and give them another five minutes there. Repeat as necessary until they understand that when you walk to that spot it means potty, not play.
Teach them the difference between a potty break and going for a walk, otherwise every outing will become a follow-your-nose adventure and they’ll forget all about pottying until they get back inside. Here in the Shenandoah Valley, wildlife has been crossing my yard like it’s Grand Central Station. All those scent trails are super distracting and the dogs forget why they’re outside. That’s why we need to teach the dog that when we are in one special spot, that’s for eliminating only. I call that the “mama’s got to get to work” spot.
In fact, when I take my dogs out for an adventure walk, where they can sniff everything they want, I use a different door. If you can’t do that, then very obviously turn a different direction once out the door so they know it’s play time, not necessarily potty time.
Tip 4: Set your pup up for success. Very young pups and small breed dogs have short legs and often can’t make it all the way to the potty spot without losing it. Scoop them up and carry them to the proper spot. As they mature they’ll be able to get there on their own, but not yet. Help them over that hump.
Tip 5: Supervise. Supervise. Supervise. If your pup is unsupervised, he’s getting into trouble. If you can’t watch your puppy, restrict his freedom. Confine him to a puppy-proof room, play pen, or crate. Crates simplify training. Dogs are denning animals, and they prefer a clean sleeping area. Get a crate that gives your pup space to enter without ducking, turn around and lie down. That’s just enough room for a bedroom. If you get a crate that’s too big, you’ve given him a bedroom and a bathroom. If your pup is a large breed, you’ll want to buy a crate that will accommodate him when he’s full grown. Get one that has a movable divider so you can customize the interior to suit his changing size. The crate is not a place of punishment, it is a place of safety and sleep.
Tip 6: Clean any accidents with an enzymatic cleaner such as Nature’s Miracle. Regular household cleaners do not break down the urine molecules to a point that the dog can’t smell them. The scent of urine to a dog is like a Rest Room sign to us. It declares that spot to be an appropriate bathroom.
Tip 7: Praise, don’t punish. You have less than three seconds to express your opinion of your puppy’s conduct for him to connect your reaction to his action. Less than three seconds. Finding a puddle that’s hours old and scolding your pup is useless. He has no idea what you’re yelling about, he just knows you’re upset and he should make himself small so you won’t hurt him. Do it often and he’ll believe you’re not a stable leader. He will be less likely to potty in your presence because that’s when he’s most vulnerable and you’ve taught him that maybe you’re not always safe to be around. By screaming or doing something like rubbing his nose in it, you make potty training much more difficult. Don’t do it, no matter how frustrated you are.
In summary, be calm. Be consistent. Have a routine. I guarantee your puppy will learn proper potty habits faster than you did when you were a wee pup yourself.
About the writer: Molly Dugger Brennan, APDT (mollythedogtrainer.com) adores dogs to the extent that her Harrisonburg, Virginia-based training is “so much fun it doesn’t feel like work.” Her classes include Puppy, Beginner (five months to any age), Intermediate, Advanced, Trick, Private lessons and Therapy Dog. She also certifies therapy dog teams for the Alliance of Therapy Dogs.
