The Mountain State’s signature snack—just the way Grandmaw made it.
By Jimmy Proffitt | Photos by Abby Stewart
The first time I remember Grandmaw Edge making pepperoni rolls was for my birthday. I had spent a couple of weeks with my great-grandparents in their house in Buckhannon, West Virginia. It was a huge two-story house with a big front porch. I know this was the summer between ninth and tenth grade, because I had taken art in high school my freshman year and really got into drawing. I took my sketchpad with me and sat on the wall in front of the Bicentennial Motel on Main Street, which was just across the street, and drew their house. I gave the drawing to Granddaddy for Father’s Day, and today my aunt has it in the dining room of her house. The rest of my family came that week to spend a couple of days before we all went home.
Because I thought the world revolved around my then-teenage self, what I didn’t realize was that those were West Virginia pepperoni rolls, and we really had them at dinner because it was West Virginia Day. Yep, I was born on West Virginia Day, which is June 20, the day it became a state in 1863. How’s that for being a true Appalachian! If you’re from West Virginia, you know what a pepperoni roll is. If you’re not, it’s just what it sounds like: a roll with pepperoni baked inside. These came about because a wife baked them for her husband who worked in the coal mines. A miner’s pail could easily hold four to six of them, and there was no worry about spoilage.
It became a huge thing, and all the miners ate them. You can find them almost anywhere across the state today. Grandmaw was born and raised in Webster, West Virginia, and had plenty of family that worked in the coal mines.
My great-granddaddy was a baker in Buckhannon. He really wanted to be a baseball player, and even made the minor leagues, but Great-Grandmaw wouldn’t hear of it, so he got a regular job. I’m sure he made thousands of pepperoni rolls in his lifetime. I remember him, but just barely. I thought he looked just like George Burns, right down to the cigar, which he would tamp out and stick in his shirt pocket. He was always wearing a dress shirt, many of them with a little brown or burnt spot in the pocket, usually because a cigar burned through his pocket protector.
I helped Grandmaw stuff the rolls on my birthday to get ready to bake. She had me lay three slices of pepperoni on each, then she rolled them up. They were small and appetizer sized. She asked me what cake I wanted for my birthday. I didn’t really know what to say—I hadn’t been asked that before. As I was the fourth kid, we didn’t really celebrate my birthday much; I think my parents were just tired by the time I came along. I asked for pineapple upside-down cake. Maybe that’s why I feel like it’s kind of a fancy and impressive cake.
Grandmaw’s Pepperoni Rolls (photo above)
You’ll see lots of recipes made with pizza sauce, cheese, herbs, and all kinds of things in them, but these are a classic pepperoni roll, made with Grandmaw’s Refrigerator Rolls.
Yield: 1 dozen rolls |
Seasons enjoyed: Summer
- 12 golf ball-size dough balls from Grandmaw’s Refrigerator Rolls
- 36 pepperoni slices
- 1 tablespoon salted butter, melted
Flatten a dough ball out in your fingers, stretching it out to a 3-inch (7.5 cm) round.
Lay 2 pepperoni slices on the edge of the flat round and pull the dough halfway over the slices as you begin to roll it up. Then lay another slice right in the middle and continue rolling to completely cover all 3 slices. Tuck the ends under and place on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough and pepperoni.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C/gas 6). Cover the rolls with a clean kitchen towel. Let them rise while the oven comes to temperature, 15 to 20 minutes.
Brush the rolls with the melted butter and bake until golden brown on top, 15 to 18 minutes. Transfer the rolls to a serving platter and serve warm. If you prefer, serve with marinara sauce or ranch dressing for dipping.
Grandmaw’s Refrigerator Rolls
Yield: 48 to 60 rolls | Seasons enjoyed: Anytime I want to remember Grandmaw
- 2 packets (½ ounce/14 g total) active dry yeast
- ½ cup (120 ml) warm water (110°F/43°C)
- ½ cup (100 g) sugar, divided
- 1½ teaspoons salt
- 1½ cups hot water
- ¼ cup (50 g) shortening, softened, plus more for greasing
- 1 large egg, slightly beaten
- 6 to 6½ cups (720 to 780 g) plain flour, plus more for dusting
- 1 to 2 tablespoons butter, melted
In a large mug or 2-cup (480 ml) measuring cup, dissolve the yeast in the warm water and add 1 teaspoon of the sugar to feed the yeast. Let it sit for 5 minutes to activate. It should begin to get foamy and grow to about 1 cup (240 ml).
In a large bowl, stir the remaining sugar and the salt into the hot water until dissolved. Add the shortening and the beaten egg. Mix until the shortening has completely melted. Stir in the bloomed yeast. Add 4 cups (480 g) of the flour and stir until the dough is sticky and no dry flour is visible. Add additional flour, 1 cup (120 g) at a time, until the dough is smooth and easy to handle.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until it is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Use additional flour as needed to prevent it from sticking to the surface. Using a little shortening, grease a large bowl and place the dough in it. Cover the bowl with a clean kitchen towel and let the dough rest in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in size, 30 to 45 minutes.
Using shortening, grease a pan large enough to fit the number of rolls you want to make. Punch down the dough and pull out what you need, roll it into balls, and place them in the pan about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart (at most). Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let them rest in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in size, about 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C/gas 6). Bake until well browned, 20 to 22 minutes; if they brown quickly, cover with a sheet of foil for the last 4 to 5 minutes to prevent burning. Brush the tops with a little melted butter when they come out, and let them cool for about 5 minutes before serving.
About This Story
This piece is an excerpt adapted with permission from Jimmy Proffitt’s recently published cookbook, Seasoned in Appalachia: Delicious Recipes from the Mountains and Hollers (Rock Point), which features heartwarming family stories and how-tos for making 75 Appalachia-inspired dishes.
Born in the Shenandoah Valley, Proffitt is a passionate home cook, freelance writer, member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP), and the recipient of the organization’s 2023 Member of the Year Award. He now resides in East Tennessee with his dogs, cats, and husband.
For more information: theappalachiantale.com
