Northern spicebush (Lindera benzoin) is one of the more fascinating shrubs that thrive in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Although reputed to grow as tall as 15 feet, most of the ones I’ve seen topped out at between five and six feet. This flora features alternate shiny leaves that are an appealing dark green and look something like an egg would if it has been stretched out. Come autumn, the leaves turn a very fetching golden yellow.
Bruce Ingram
Northern spicebush growing on the author’s Botetourt County, Virginia land.
It is the spicebush’s berries, though, that stand out as the little red drupes (that are a little similar to those of a dogwood in size and color) often remain on this understory shrub well into winter. Numerous species of songbirds consume the berries, but it does not seem to draw them as much as other native fruits do such as summer and fox grapes and dogwoods and persimmons, for example.
We humans also can make use of the spicebush also called allspice. The spicy, citrusy fruits can be used in apple pies and cobblers to add a little pizzazz. I’ve eaten the berries raw, although I have to admit that the taste is only fair. The leaves can be steeped and turned into a tea. So look for those gloriously red spicebush berries this month and consider gathering them for some holiday dishes such as pumpkin pie. Or maybe snack on them during a walk.
Bruce and Elaine Ingram will profile a different wild edible every month. For more information on their book Living the Locavore Lifestyle, contact them at bruceingramoutdoors@gmail.com.