Editor's Note: This story was written prior to the impacts of Hurricane Helene, and much of the Blue Ridge region is still recovering. While many counties and towns remain open for visiting and welcome your much needed support in this difficult time, we urge you to verify information with individual entities in impacted areas before making any plans. If you feel able and wish to help, we invite you donate to Helene relief efforts for those in the mountain regions of North Carolina, Tennessee, Virginia and South Carolina through the carefully vetted organizations found here. Our continued thoughts and prayers go out to all of the affected communities.
Humans love to name things. There are times when we are even successful at capturing intrinsic qualities with our words. In that spirit, here are seven Southern Appalachian summits that combine accessibility by car, possession of stories of natural and human nature and being home to great autumn views.
Brasstown Bald, Georgia – 4,784 feet
Ralph Daniel | Explore GA
Brasstown Bald’s name comes from Cherokee for “a place of fresh green.”
Watch the sun and shadows dance across the peaks and valleys of four states on the mountain called Itse’yi by First Nation Cherokee. Translation: “a place of fresh green.” The early Europeans, however, misheard the word as Untsaiyi. Translation: “brass.” Hence the English misnomer, Brasstown.
Ralph Daniel | Explore GA
A mountain bald is a largely Appalachian descriptor of a mountain summit covered in shrubs and dense native grasses rather than trees. “According to Cherokee legend… a great flood once swept through the region, prompting members of the tribe to craft a great canoe. As the waters swiftly rose, the canoe eventually settled on [Brasstown Bald]. Unetlanvhi (“The Creator”) cleared all the trees on top of the mountain so survivors could plant crops and live until the floods subsided.” (Georgia Historical Society)
While driving up Georgia’s highest mountain, stop at the many scenic overlooks before arriving at the summit “parking lot with a view.” Have a picnic or shop at the general store for locally made items. Then, access the peak in one of two ways—get a cardio workout on the 0.6-mile paved foot trail (a 42-story-building’s-worth of climbing!) or take the shuttle.
Autumn leaves paint the landscape around the 360-degree viewing platform, and telescopes offer unique perspectives. Up to 80 miles of fall colors peak in mid to late October. Spend some time at the 8,000-square-foot visitor center for interactive natural science and history exhibits. And, watch the 15-minute movie at the mountaintop theatre.
For “words” in the form of ancient soapstone petroglyphs, stop at the Track Rock Archeological Site on the western side (US 76). Called the “printed place” by the Cherokee, these writings have yet to be translated.
Sassafras Mountain, South Carolina – 3,553 feet
Adobe Stock
Sassafras Mountain’s name pays homage to the fragrant native tree of the same name.
Come see why this mountain, whose name pays homage to the citrusy fragrant native trees, is listed in National Geographic’s “50 of the World’s Last Great Places.” According to local lore, the Cherokee first planted fields of sassafras saplings likely for their ancient medicinal purposes. The uses for sassafras became so popular in the 17th Century, roots shipped regularly to Europe at a price (in today’s money) of $25,000 per pound!
This tree with its three different mitten-shaped leaves is still a botanical mystery. It feeds insects, birds and other animals—including humans (tea and spices from the twigs and leaves). They can live for hundreds of years and show brilliant leaf colors and dark blue fruit in autumn.
If you’re in search of one of the easiest “high points” to visit in the country, this is your destination. The road to the top is rich with hardwoods sporting colors of orange, scarlet and purple highlighted by the light golden needles of white pines. Once there, you’ll be atop the Eastern Continental Divide and at the tripoint of three diverging watersheds where you can see 30-50 miles and three states.
At the summit, what was once a neglected space is now a location of quiet nature. The new observation tower is built in the style of natural stone with an inlaid compass rose below your feet and the state line between the Carolinas through the center. The tower sits 11 feet high and 44 feet in diameter, reached by a paved short path and a limited accessible trail (gravel portion). The views of the pristine wilderness look like you’ve put in a hike—but with an easy stroll.
Clingmans Dome, Tennessee – 6,643 feet
Joshua Moore
Clingmans Dome, TN
Take a drive to the “top of the Smokies” once known to the Cherokee as Kuwahi—“mulberry place.” It was also called “Smoky Dome” by the first European settlers until summit heights were taken and controversy erupted. Thomas Lanier Clingman explored, measured and promoted the current park area before and after the Civil War. Reportedly possessing an inordinate amount of self-confidence untempered by any evidence of humility, Clingman fueled an ongoing public dispute (with Dr. Elisha Mitchell) about which mountain was the tallest. Even though his mountain “came up short,” Clingman received recognition in 1859.
A “dome” is the descriptor for mountaintop geology. In this case, 560-million-year-old rock formations. Outcroppings can be seen in the Forney Ridge Parking Area just below the summit.
On the road to the top numerous pullouts offer views of the coniferous rainforest of spruce, fir and hardwoods. Ridges and valleys of rich reds, oranges and yellows abound on the scenic drive also famous for its breathtaking sunsets. Photographers line up for them!
Once at the parking lot, stop in the small visitor center and store; enjoy the views; and, begin the walk up a 0.5-mile spiral ramp to the observation tower. It’s a steep 13% gradient with benches, rocks and fallen trees for resting (no pets, no bikes, not wheelchair accessible). The 54-foot circular tower has 360-degree views (up to 100 miles on a clear day) and information boards detailing names of mountains in the distance.
The cool climate of autumn here and at nearby Newfound Gap (site of FDR’s Great Smoky Mountains National Park dedication) draws many visitors during “leaf looking” season.
Mt. Mitchell, North Carolina – 6,684 feet
Dana Foreman
Mount Mitchell was once called Attakulla by the Cherokee, translating to “wood leaning up.”
Add a drive to the top of this mountain, 1 ¼ miles above sea level, to your list. What later became North Carolina’s first state park was once called Attakulla by the Cherokee. Loosely translated—“wood leaning up” or “pitched trees.”
The current name recognizes the work of science professor Dr. Elisha Mitchell. He dedicated his knowledge, time and expertise measuring the height using mathematical and barometric pressure calculations, yet still faced public controversy and dispute over his findings from the aforementioned Clingman. To settle the matter, Mitchell returned to the mountain in 1857 where he tragically fell from a cliff and drowned in the water below the falls. He now rests atop his beloved peak that he not only believed and proved was higher than Clingman’s, but ultimately turned out to be the tallest mountain east of the Mississippi River.
On the drive up, watch for the deep colors of autumn as cherry, birch, maple, ash and other hardwoods transform. Enjoy a meal at the restaurant or grab snacks and gifts near the top. Have a picnic at the tables and stone grills (water provided) around the parking lot. Visit the cultural and natural museum on site; or backpack in to the small primitive campgrounds in warm weather.
Take the paved pathway (about 100 yards) to the viewing platform where the clouds can be around, above and below you. Check the weather forecast for a clear day. Not to worry though if it’s not. The alpine climate, with its Canadian-like weather, can change quickly. It also supports 91 bird species, flying squirrels, black bears, gray foxes and rare flora that called botanists to the land as early as the 1700s.
Black Mountain, Kentucky – 4,139 feet
Kentucky Dept of Tourism
Black Mountain is also known as Katahrin’s Mountain, though the sources of both names are somewhat of a mystery.
Explore the isolation along the narrow linear ridge of the Cumberland Mountains at this state’s highest point. While the true origin of the current name is unknown, it’s perhaps linked to the black seams of coal that lie beneath one of Appalachia’s most famous and infamous locations for this industry—Harlan County. Or, local lore says that it might refer to the devastating fire that charred the mountain in 1896 after decades of extreme logging throughout the 19th Century.
It’s also known as Katahrin’s Mountain. Yet no one seems to know the origin of this name either. Perhaps it’s a mis-translation of the closely related word “katahdin” that means “main or greatest mountain” in several First Nation languages.
Accessing this mountain, although not on many folks’ list for “state highpointing,” is an endeavor in and of itself. There are steep drops and rock walls along a 14-mile paved drive of quintessential winding mountain roads. Stop along the way for the only long views. Then the adventure begins—a one-lane gravel-sprinkled dirt road to the top. Pause often to enjoy the northern hardwood forest with trees and shrubs noted for their fall colors (including yellow birch, sugar maple, American beech, white ash and more).
Near the summit is an other-worldly FAA radar dome in this former privately owned area. At the top the road circles communications towers. And, the only indicators of the importance of this summit are a simple plaque and a USGS marker with its super specific elevation notation of 4,139.247 feet. While the lack of visitor accoutrement and the presence of stark technologies might be off-putting, keep in mind that this location was recently saved from the devastation of mountaintop removal mining plans.
Reddish Knob, Virginia – 4,397 feet
Pat and Chuck Blackley
Reddish Knob has been called the best vantage point in Virginia.
Gaze across some of the largest areas of roadless wilderness remaining in the eastern U.S. at this location. Geologically, a “knob” is a word for a prominent often rounded hill on a mountain ridge likely formed by glaciers in previous ice ages. They can be composed of hard sandstone, whose common colors include red caused by iron oxide. These attributes are likely the genesis of the name for this specific high point.
Hailed as the “best vantage point in the state,” Reddish Knob offers visitors a ‘round-the-clock destination. Come early for breathtaking sunrises, and bring a camp chair, binoculars and bird guides to watch hundreds of migrating raptors—five species of hawks, bald eagles, kestrels, falcons and with a bit of luck golden eagles and northern goshawks (third week of September). Plan a late evening to see the equally beautiful sunset, and bring a camp chair, blanket and telescope for the celestial scenery at this dark sky haven.
Prepare with a full tank of gas/full EV charge, food, drinks and other items for the trip. There are no amenities at the top.
Drive all the way to the “parking lot in the sky” on a paved, narrow and curvy road. (A leisurely and cautious drive is recommended due its popularity with cyclists.) All along the journey, look east across the Shenandoah Valley and west into the mountains of West Virginia.
The parking lot itself (along with the guardrails) have become a canvas for street art. For those not fond of graffiti, simply look over at nature’s vistas at this overlook.
Cacapon Mountain, West Virginia – 2,320 feet
Pat and Chuck Blackley
Cacapon Mountain takes its name from the Shawnee word meaning “medicine waters.”
Witness eons of interplay between water and rock at the highest point in eastern West Virginia. This 16-mile-long mountain’s name is derived from a First Nation Shawnee word meaning “medicine waters” and aptly reflects the cultural and geological history of the area. For centuries humans have sought the healing powers of warm springs flowing out of the mountains.
The ridges themselves were born over 400-million years ago—folding and compressing the quartz-rich sandstone into what National Geographic calls “one of America’s outstanding beauty spots.” Today a latticework of streams continues to write upon the steep and rugged terrain.
A double experience awaits visitors at not one but two drivable destinations. At the southern end, travel along a gravel road to reach the small observation platform at Cacapon Mountain Overlook. At the northern end of the mountain is Prospect (or Panorama) Overlook. Enjoy views of three states and the confluence of two rivers simply by stepping out of your vehicle at the roadside pull-off. While there, consider a hike to Prospect Rock (made famous by George Washington) along the flat, 12-mile fire road that runs along the mountain’s crest.
For fall visitors the autumn leaves display bursts of crimson and gold up and down the mountainsides. The mixed conifer and hardwoods include eastern red cedar, hemlock, white pine, serviceberry, red maple, black walnut, black birch and more.
For a water and rock “bonus,” visit nearby Berkeley Springs for healing warm springs and exhibits of stunning quartz crystals.
“Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting. So…get on your way!” (Theodor Seuss Geisel)
The story above first appeared in our September / October 2022 issue. For more like it subscribe today or log in with your active BRC+ Membership. Thank you for your support!