We visit a collection of the turning wheels and stones that built human history in the mountains.
Courtesy of WV Dept of Commerce
Glade Creek Grist Mill, at Babcock State Park, West Virginia, owes some of its striking beauty to the fact that it was assembled from parts of older mills.
Mills have anchored human communities around the globe for over 2,000 years. These mechanisms of ingenuity processed wood, wool, bark, gunpowder, textiles, metals and grains. The latter were collectively termed “grist mills” (or gristmills) based on the word used by early Europeans that meant cereal grains ready for grinding.
Located by a swiftly moving stream or a dam-able pond or lake, grist mills capture and transform water’s kinetic energy into mechanical power. This moves an intricate system of gears, belts and other “puzzle pieces” to ultimately rotate large millstones. It is between these sometimes behemoth sandstone, granite or burr stones which are dressed (carved) with intricate patterns that the magic occurs. Corn becomes meal and wheat becomes flour.
Through the years, communities in the Southern Appalachians formed around waterways with a dual purpose in mind—transportation and energy to run mills. These gathering places offered services to folks who made regular trips to have raw agricultural goods processed and purchase or trade for necessities.
Clustered in the valleys and mountains, these active communities were “towns” before they ever officially declared a name for themselves. Visitors might have breathed in the musky forest aroma of wood being sawn. Touched the soft lanolin brushings of carded wool. Watched bark powder being made for tanning hides. Traded for necessary hunting supplies. Witnessed weavers at the looms. Heard the pinging of a blacksmith’s hammer. Possibly whiffed the sweet smell of mash cooking. And, anticipated tasting fresh cornbread and biscuits hot from the wood stove!
They also took this opportunity to see and catch up on all the news from “neighbors” who lived half-a-day’s ride away. It became as much a social event to visit the mill as it was a commercial endeavor in the early history of our area.
Today, hundreds of these grist mills across the U.S. have been abandoned and succumbed to time. Fortunately, individuals and organizations such as the Society for the Preservation of Old Mills are on a mission to restore these examples of shared human history.
We are fortunate in the Blue Ridge to have a number of water-powered grist mills grinding fresh grains today and preserving the memories of yesterday.
Let’s visit a few and enjoy the sensory experiences of a bygone time.
Georgia: Prater’s Mill
Fifty years ago, a labor of love saved this 1855 grist mill. Families originally traveled for miles on mules and wagons to the cotton gin, sawmill, syrup mill, wool carder, blacksmith shop and general store. Today, visitors can see the original French Buhr millstones in action; attend an artisan fair to hear live music and eat some good ol’ Southern cooking; picnic; walk trails; and take the kids to the petting zoo. pratersmill.org
Nora Mill Granary
The 1,500-pound millstones in this 1876 structure are powered by the Chattahoochee River via a wooden raceway that feeds a water turbine. Grinding only fresh grains to make corn and wheat products and developing famous recipes (ask about Pioneer’s Porridge!) bring visitors to the mill, gift shop and old-fashioned country store. Oh, and the aroma of freshly baked goods greets you at the door. noramill.com
South Carolina: Hagood Mill Historic Site & Folklife Center
The 1845 clapboard-sided, hand-hewn log mill with its overshot wooden water wheel is the anchor for this heritage destination. Historic cabins, cotton gin, blacksmith shop and the only protected Native American petroglyph site in the state are also here. Visitors come year-round for the environment and stay for the activities—music and folk festivals, camps for kids, classes in blacksmithing, carving, medicinal plants and more. hagoodmillhistoricsite.com
Photo courtesy of Kim Clevenger
Hagood Mill, South Carolina, is a year-round destination not just as a working mill, but also for classes, music and more.
Suber’s Corn Mill
The water rushing down the wooden chute and turning the wheel “is one of those sounds you tuck away in your memory,” says the fourth-generation family operating this 1908 mill. With a history of other nearby Suber family mills dating back to the mid-1800s, grinding corn at this location is now a weekly event. Grits and cornmeal are the delicious results, along with animal feed. A friendly welcome and interesting stories await. facebook.com/SubersCornMill
North Carolina: Mingus Mill
Located in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, this 1886 working mill was built in only three months at this historically busy mountain crossroads. An efficient system of moving water from the creek into a sluice, then through a millrace and under the structure to power a cast iron turbine was cutting edge technology in the day. Caretakers still grind grains from spring through fall; and flour, cornmeal and other items are available for purchase. nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/mfm.htm
Francis Mill
One hundred thirty-five years ago William Francis, a master carpenter, millwright, farmer, mechanic and well-known beekeeper, built this structure. Perhaps most awe-inspiring—the 24-foot wheel. First made of poplar, it was replaced with steel in 1914 and continues so today. An extensive volunteer-based effort has renovated the mill with attention to quality craftsmanship while preserving original equipment. It is still owned and operated by William’s great-great-granddaughter. francismill.org
Courtesy of Macon Green Photo
Francis Mill, North Carolina, was built by Willam Francis, great-great grandfather of the current owner.
Tennessee: Valentine Mill
Watch and learn the inner workings of an 1800s grist mill in action. Eat fresh-baked, scratch biscuits slathered in homemade jelly or jam (created from locally sourced fruits). Buy a handmade quilt and goat’s milk soaps and lotions. And, take home flour, mixes, cornmeal and grits ground from non-GMO, chemical-free grains and Heirloom corn. The bags are even printed on a 1910 printing press. All the ingredients of a good day! valentinemills.net
Megan Gillespie
At Tennessee’s Valentine Mill, the grain bags are printed on a 1910 printing press. The mill also offers shopping for foods, quilts, goat’s milk soaps and more.
The Old Mill
A visit to this 1830 mill, one of the oldest continually operating and most photographed in the country, is a journey through Appalachian history. A mountain community’s first post office; iron forges; sawmills; secret looms for knitting Union clothing; floods; electricity in 1921; local red clay pottery; moonshine; and, restaurant fare made from freshly ground grains. History lives here where millers filled, weighed and tied some 125,000 bags of product last year…by hand. old-mill.com
The Old Mill in Sevierville, Tennessee, and built in 1830, has been the site of many regional firsts, including post office, iron forges, sawmills, secret looms for knitting Union clothing and electricity.
Tim Webb
McHargue’s Mill, Kentucky, is home to a collection of 100 hand-chiseled millstones.
Kentucky: McHargue’s Mill
It’s all about the millstones at this 1939 Civilian Conservation Corps erected structure—and the yellow and white cornmeal ground at this working watermill. The 2,000-pound working stone came over the Wilderness Road in 1805. And, other than the Smithsonian Institution, this destination has the largest collection of millstones in the country: 100 of them, hand-chiseled, displayed along the paved walkway. Come on weekends to see the process at this 900-acre city park.
Virginia: Wade’s Mill
Traditions return to the state’s oldest operating commercial grist mill – weddings! “Summertime weekends [once] featured several weddings in a row…and we’re bringing back these wonderful [events] to the mill.” Built in 1750, the mill offers visitors views of three floors of history; and, if you’re first in line, you get to help start the 21-foot overshot iron wheel. Grains and products at this mill are 100% natural and preservative-free. wadesmill.com
Courtesy of High Standard Aerial Photography
Virginia’s Wade’s Mill, in Raphine, is the state’s oldest, dating to 1750.
McCormick Farm Grist Mill
This mill was built in the late 1700s by the grandfather of Cyrus McCormick, famous for advancing crop harvesting with the mechanical grain reaper. Located on this early self-sufficient farmstead (now part of Virginia Tech), this classic mill uses a complex and ingenious system. “Wheat is ground between the upper and stationary nether stone; carried to the third floor by elevator cups; and, passes through bolting cloth, which separates germ from bran. All powered by a single wheel.” arec.vaes.vt.edu/arec/shenandoah-valley
Gabriel Pent
McCormick Farm Grist Mill, Virginia, was built in the late 1700s by the grandfather of grain reaper inventor Cyrus McCormick.
West Virginia: Cook’s Old Mill
Built in 1858 on the site of a much earlier grist mill, this large four-story structure with two “run of grindstones,” conveyors, elevators, hoppers and more once produced “a large volume of flour and feed.” Late 19th century conversions to a double turbine system and roller mills are still in use today. This family-owned property is developing woodworking, blacksmithing and weaving spaces for artisans interested in creating goods using traditional “technology of 100 years ago.” cooksoldmill.com
Courtesy of Nancy Guile
Cook’s Old Mill, West Virginia, is developing spaces for artisans to keep old crafts and practices alive and in use.
Glade Creek Grist Mill
The youth of this structure, “built” in 1976, belies its age. Assembled at Babcock State Park as a tribute, this working grist mill brought back to life materials from much, much older closed mills. Set into the landscape of a rushing stream, ancient boulders and surrounding forests, this historically accurate replica is now a famous photography destination. And, there’s fresh yellow cornmeal spring through fall! wvstateparks.com/glade-creek-grist-mill-babcock
Mill Superlatives of the World
- Largest metal water wheel in the country at 50 feet in diameter: Fairwater Fitz Water Wheel, Wisconsin
- Largest metal water wheel in the world at 72.5 feet in diameter and six feet wide: Lady Isabella, Isle of Man
- Largest wooden water wheel in the country at 44 feet in diameter: Berry College, Georgia
- Largest wooden water wheel in the world at 90 feet in diameter (and 900 years old):Noria Water Wheels, Syria
Mill Talk
The language of milling remains with us today.
- Wait your “turn”
- It’s the same old grind
- Milling around
- Run of the mill
- Put through the mill
- Keep your nose to the grindstone
- And many more…
The story above first appeared in our May / June 2022 issue. For more like it subscribe today or log in with your active BRC+ Membership. Thank you for your support!