The town, in the state’s panhandle, makes for great walking—into history, distinctive shopping and fine restaurants.
Berkeley Springs’ restorative waters were a gathering place for Native Americans long before settlers moved into what would become West Virginia. George Washington visited often, and, in 1776, his family and friends established the country’s first spa here.
Modern Berkeley Springs retains many of its historic structures, while numerous spas provide stress relief through mineral water soaks, and various kinds of massage. (It’s said there are more certified massage therapists in town than lawyers.) Also known as one of America’s best small art towns, it also contains some of the state’s finest restaurants.
With the holidays approaching, Laurie and I decided this was the perfect place to spend the day doing some gift shopping and learning a bit of history while also taking a leisurely stroll.
We arrived mid-day so lunch was topmost on our minds. “Our Almost Famous Cream of Crab Soup” at Tari’s was so full of the succulent crustacean that I saved half of my fried green tomato BLT for later. Here we met Jeanne Mozier, a member of the board of Travel Berkeley Springs, who had agreed to be our guide for the next couple of hours.
Berkeley Springs State Park is unlike any other you will visit. There are no trails, campgrounds or woodlands. Located in town, it’s a health spa. Mineral springs flow into stone-lined races attracting people to wade the 74.3-degree liquid. (Local lore claims that George Washington used the outdoor bathtub that bears his name.) Visitors may fill bottles from a public tap and a swimming pool also contains the spring water.
The Museum of Berkeley Springs, located in the 1815 Roman Bath House, has numerous exhibits concerning the town’s history, but two interested me in particular. The area was one of America’s major suppliers of canned tomatoes from the 1880s to 1941 (and had an annual tomato festival attended by thousands). Growing up in West Virginia, my schooling included state history classes and David Hunter Strother figured prominently in those lessons. Using the pseudonym Porte Crayon, he gained fame as a mid-1800s journalist and illustrator—and the museum has several of his original sketches!
Holiday shopping began in earnest at the Ice House Co-Op Gallery, sited within a former building used for cold storage of apples in the early 1900s. The works of more than 30 artists who live within 50 miles of the town are on display and Laurie found an item she thought would be appreciated by her brother and another destined for a cousin.
Lot 12 Public House: Dining not to be Missed
Toasted gnocchi; how could something so simple be so wonderful? The same was true with the cornmeal dusted cod. And even the mashed potatoes—mashed potatoes, mind you—were simply divine. Currently my favorite West Virginia restaurant. lot12.com
Jeanne Mozier calls Independence Street the town’s “quirky street” because of its painted parking meters and dissimilar mix of businesses. Black Cat Music Shop (“Your Local Source for Everything Music”) is close to Hunter’s Hardware, in operation since 1870. Inspired Chaos had an unpredictable mix of women’s accessories, inspirational signs, artwork and pottery. More than a third of the offerings are created by local artisans. Next door, Give Purrs a Chance Cat Café was the most fun stop of the day. The two-story Victorian home has a plethora of socialized cats waiting to be adopted. True to its name, we had many of them purring on our laps or brushing against our legs.
Mozier and I were discussing the kinds of massages available in town when she mentioned reflexology and I then knew how I was going to wrap up my visit here. I couldn’t think of a better way to end a day of walking than with an hour long session of someone rubbing my feet.
When You Go
The Walk:
A walk in downtown Berkeley Springs. Laurie and I covered about 2.5 miles weaving through town. Your mileage may vary.
Getting there: The town is located along U.S. 522 in West Virginia’s Eastern Panhandle. Closest four-lane highway approach is via I-70 in Maryland.
More information: The website, berkeleysprings.com, provides information about dining, shopping, etc., as well as a historic walking tour of the town.
Find out more about Leonard’s walking and hiking adventures at habitualhiker.com.
The story above appears in our November/December 2019 issue. For more subscribe today or log in to the digital edition with your active digital subscription. Thank you for your support!
