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Sweet Things Shoppe
Sweet Things Ice Cream Shoppe has been around since 1982.
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The Bookery
The shelves at The Bookery hold more than 40,000 new, used, rare and signed books.
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Carriage Horse
The ghost of Traveller? The soul of Robert E. Lee's companion might look out of the eyes of this modern-day horse, pulling a carriage through historic Lexington
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Sweet Things Shoppe
Sweet Things Ice Cream Shoppe has been around since 1982.
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Stonewall Jackson Sculpture
Stonewall Jackson shares his memorial cemetery with 144 Confederate veterans and two Virginia governors. Edward Valentine sculpted his likeness.
Two of Blue Ridge Country’s enthusiastic interns headed to historic Lexington, Va., to explore its eclectic downtown, populated by artists, gardeners, Civil War figures, a bookstore cat and a singing waiter.
Rich history runs through the walls of old buildings downtown and walks with visitors in the aged brick that lines the sidewalks, some of it the same that Civil War generals trod on. Small-business owners greet travelers and locals in their shops and restaurants; paintings of Shenandoah Valley scenery hang in gallery windows, created by artists in surrounding Rockbridge County. College students from Virginia Military Institute and Washington & Lee University frequent the streets.
Several bed and breakfasts skirt the edge of town, and Llewellyn Lodge was home base for our trip, less than a 10-minute walk from Lexington’s historic attractions.
Front Porches and Ice Cream
Our walk downtown takes us past Southern houses with huge front porches, rocking chairs and elegantly landscaped gardens; a man waves from his swing.
At the family-owned Tuscany Italian Restaurant we find candlelit tables, soothing live piano music and a singing waiter. Between us, we order pasta and lamb, and share some delicious bruschetta. The pianist, Annita, tells us she has dual citizenship in Italy. So does her daughter, chef Lisa D’Avanzo, who along with her father Luciano creates the authentic dishes that taste as if they’re straight from Rome.
Dessert awaits down the street at Sweet Things Ice Cream Shoppe, famous for its waffle cones and more than 100 different recipes of homemade ice cream. Today, 26 flavors are available: everything from ginger to pumpkin pie to the best-selling Oreo.
“Flavors like banana and coconut have a cult following,” says owner Patty Williams, as her husband and co-owner Chris scoops out chocolate butter pecan.
We head to the visitor’s center a few blocks away to wait for the sun to set and our ghost tour to begin. Our guide abruptly appears from behind a bush, startling us in her black bonnet and hoop skirt. We follow her lantern through the alleys of Lexington, listening to stories of hangings and Robert E. Lee’s ghost horse Traveller, before we finally arrive at the Stonewall Jackson Cemetery. The full moon shines off the gray crosses marking Civil War graves, and we conclude the evening wondering if the ghost of a rebel soldier will cross our path.
Civil War Echoes
The next morning, the smell of fresh coffee draws us down to the family-style breakfast room at Llewellyn Lodge. There, we dine with Llewellyn’s other guests – people from all over the country.
We follow breakfast with a carriage-ride tour of the city. Our guide, a Civil War re-enactor, takes us past huge brick houses, explaining how Lee’s sister-in-law took refuge in one and how Stonewall Jackson grew up in another.
The two gray horses trot pleasantly in front of us, the clip-clop of their hooves bringing the Civil War-era memory to life.
After our journey, we stop at a charming two- room restaurant called The Bistro on Main. On this particular day, the menu offers an array ranging from quesadillas to barbecued duck. On the walls hang photographs by local photographers – town scenes and silhouetted portraits of wildlife.
Main Street Shopping
The shop windows that line Main Street are filled with antiques, candles, books and handmade jewelry. We begin at Virginia Born & Bred, where nearly everything in the store (from handmade nightlights to homemade soap) is made right in Virginia. We browse through wines, jams, and Virginia Diner peanuts before heading on to Books & Co., where a gray cat named Annie greets us at the door. The independent bookstore boasts a wonderful children’s section as well as shelves dedicated to Virginia and Rockbridge County.
A few doors down we find The Bookery, holding more than 40,000 new, used, rare and signed books jammed into every nook and cranny. The packed shelves rise to the ceiling, holding everything from two-dollar used paperbacks to a $4,775 book signed by Picasso. Regulars come to her store from a two-hour radius, says Marysue Forrest as she checks out a customer. “Nothin’?” the customer asks about his total. “Eight dollars off your credit,” she smiles. We move from classic books to classic furniture at Francesca’s Antiques, pieces from Virginia homes that are shipped all over the United States. We are greeted in the Shenandoah Attic with a cup of apple cider (served hot or cold depending on the season).
The smell of chocolate draws us into the Cocoa Mill, past the sign outside: “True Luxury is chocolate in the summer.” Behind the glass cases is an array of choices, and we finally decide among the famous truffles and chocolate bark, and choose chocolate-covered espresso beans.
Dragging ourselves away, we walk down the hill to the Creative Kiln, a paint-your-own pottery studio. Owner Jo Lewis helps us get started sponge-painting coasters. We place our amateur creations on the shelf next to coil mugs (created hours earlier by summer campers) waiting to be glazed and fired.
The Town's Only Neon Sign
The Southern Inn Restaurant remains one of the staples of downtown Lexington dining, and its neon sign – “Southern Inn, parking in the rear” – is the only such sign in the city. The atmosphere is hearty and welcoming. Chef and owner George Huger prepares some of the best fried chicken we’ve ever had.
local artists
At Artists in Cahoots, we meet George Makinson, who started the shop, an artists’ co-op, 25 years ago. The walls are covered with paintings and photographs as well as displays of ironwork and handmade jewelry – all crafted by 13 artists local to Lexington, some of whom are original members of the group.
We find more beautiful work at Artisans on Washington Street and Nelson Fine Arts Gallery, and then spend lunch at a table outside Joyful Spirit Café, known for their panini sandwiches and wraps. We enjoy a light meal while watching people stroll up and down Main Street.
Military Heritage in a Two-College Town
Lexington is a town deeply rooted in history. This afternoon we begin our lesson at Lee Chapel, in the heart of Washington and Lee University, the ninth oldest college in the country. Worn brick buildings with white columns surround the chapel, whose steeple rises in the middle of campus. We can imagine accompanying Robert E. Lee himself to morning worship here while he was president of the school. In the basement lies the Lee family crypt, and the general’s horse Traveller is buried just outside.
Sweet Things Ice Cream Shoppe has been around since 1982.
Virginia Military Institute’s campus borders W&L’s, making Lexington a dual-college town. The fortress-like buildings here create a sense of awe, and for a moment visitors feel transformed into dedicated cadets. An inscription over the barrack entrance catches our attention:
You may be whatever you resolve to be. —Stonewall Jackson
The Confederate general called Lexington home, so next we head to the Lexington house known to be the only one Jackson ever owned – he lived here with his wife while teaching at VMI. Today, a copy of Jackson’s West Point diploma hangs on the wall of the parlor, as well as an old map of Rockbridge County. A replica of his military uniform is laid out in the bedroom. The Civil War general is buried in his, just down the road.
Friday evening, we say goodbye to our gracious hosts at Llewellyn Lodge, with promises to come back for a fishing trip with John Roberts (see our July/August issue for the story). We pull onto Main Street and drive past the closing shops of downtown, following the road back to the interstate and into the mountains. As we leave the town Stonewall Jackson loved, his last words come to mind: Let us cross over the river, and rest in the shade of the trees…