A River Runs Through it

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Features

No matter where we look in the Blue Ridge region, a river runs through it—at least 50 of them. We profile 13 mountain favorites.

Rivers provide drinking water to 10 million people in the Southeast, and make this one of the most biologically diverse regions on Earth,” says Gail Lazaras, associate director of Rivers of Southern Appalachia and the Carolinas at American Rivers. “Rivers are the lifeblood of our economy…and connectors of people through time and across space.”

Let’s explore 13 of our favorites!

New River

Despite the name, this river is one of the oldest on the planet. It’s even thought to be more ancient than the Appalachian Mountains upon which it meanders. Unlike most rivers which plot their courses at lower elevations, this one runs on the crests and mountaintop basins. Its cuts and curves have exposed rocks dating back over one billion years, while the river itself is thought to be between 10 million and 360 million years old.

Description: Spilling from headwaters in North Carolina, The New flows northward for 320 miles through Virginia into West Virginia. The complex swirling waters fall 900 feet in elevation over the distance and wander about in sharp bends and steep gorges. With miles of untouched waters, it is a designated Wild and Scenic River with 53 miles set aside as the New River Gorge National River. Crossing this challenging landscape is the longest steel span bridge in the western hemisphere.

What to do: For the “best” views and interpretive information, visit the overlook at Canyon Rim Visitor Center (West Virginia). Former mining communities along the Gorge are now explorable ghost towns.

Once per year, the New River Gorge Bridge hosts pedestrians at the largest extreme sports festival in the world—BASE jumping into the abyss included!

Nature preserves, as well as state and national parks all along the river, offer camping, hiking, rock climbing and fishing. The Gorge is popular for whitewater rafting and kayaking.

Factoid: One drop of water would theoretically take 110 days to travel from the New’s origin to its final destination in the Gulf of Mexico.

Challenges: Reclamation of mining sites is ongoing, and development continues to pressure wild areas. Air and water pollutants due to human activity are increasing.

Get Involved:

  • New River Conservancy (newriverconservancy.org):“Protecting the waters, woodlands and wildlife of the New River Watershed.”
  • Friends of New River Gorge National River (friendsofnewriver.org): “[We] strive to preserve, restore [and] enhance the natural beauty, features, ecological systems, cultural and historical heritage.”

James River

Flowing west to east from the mountains to the sea, this river cuts its path entirely within the state of Virginia. As a witness to and backdrop for significant events, the James River has welcomed human travelers, hunters and settlers for 15,000 years.

Description: Over 15,000 miles of tributary streams feed this 340-mile river. With headwaters in the mountains of Alleghany County, its course to the Chesapeake Bay positively impacts over 3 million Virginians across the 10,000-square-mile James River watershed.

What to do: Fishing, tubing, swimming and camping are all favorites along the river. Canoeing and float trips are easily accessed via many launch points along the route.

Find dramatic views and walk a piece of the Appalachian Trail in the nine-mile long, 2,433-feet deep gorge of the same name.

Explore the scenic and undeveloped Upper James River section with a river outfitter’s guidance; and cross the waters on foot at the 170-year-old historic Buchanan Swinging Bridge.

Factoid: An ingenious creation called the James River Batteau allowed goods to be transported through the shoals and rapids throughout the early settlement days. It was a six-foot wide, flat bottom wooden boat that could carry 10,000 pounds while only needing 12 to 14 inches of drafting water.

Challenges: In the mid-1970s discovery of the neurotoxin Kepone in the river devastated human health, the fishing industry and the environment for decades. Over four decades later, it’s now viewed as one of the country’s most improved rivers thanks to the work and vision of individuals and groups who fought for restoration and protection.

Get Involved:

  • The James River Association (thejamesriver.org): “We provide a voice for the river and take action to promote conservation and responsible stewardship of its natural resources.”

Russell Fork River

Now one of the most popular rivers in the central Appalachians, Russell Fork created what is known as the “Grand Canyon of the South.” The deepest gorge east of the Mississippi River, Breaks Canyon, runs for five miles with depths of 830 to 1,600 feet.

Description: This 52-mile river is renowned for its screaming tumultuous whitewater. Specifically, the canyon in Breaks Interstate Park offers Class V to Class VI adventure for kayakers with extreme skills. This location sits near the Virginia/Kentucky state line. Up- and downstream waters are where the rest of us can enjoy calmer rafting and floating.

What to do: Beginners to professionals enjoy water activities along the river’s course including fishing for rainbow trout, smallmouth bass, walleye and channel cats. On the surrounding land, camping, rock climbing, hiking and picnicking by the river’s edge draw many visitors to the area. Explore the riverside town of Elkhorn (KY), population 982, for some small-town charm.

Factoid: Breaks Interstate Park is one of only two state parks in the nation operated by an interstate compact between two states.

Challenges: While water quality and eco-health continue to improve, pollutants from mining and human endeavors still threaten the river. Most recently, plans for mountaintop removal coal mining at multiple tributaries loom as a danger for overburden dumping and toxic waste in the streams and valleys.

Get Involved:

  • Friends of the Russell Fork (forf.weebly.com): “Dedicated to improving the quality of the Russell Fork River. FORF partners with schools, businesses, government agencies and nonprofits to promote environmental stewardship, environmental education and eco-tourism.”

Kentucky River and its Forks

Perhaps one of the rivers most intimately connected to the advance of civilization is this one. It supplied native communities with sustenance along hundreds of miles; early explorers with a route to the Ohio River; and European settlers with a goods and commerce transportation route.

Description: Known for its natural beauty from the Appalachians across the Cumberland Plateau, the North Fork is 168 miles famous for a nice variety of fish including three bass species, channel catfish and muskellunge. For 105 miles, the Middle Fork begins near the Virginia line and joins the North Fork. The South Fork flows north for 45 miles in a broad path with shallow to medium depths over rock bars and mudbanks. Born of the confluence of these three forks, the “main stem” of the Kentucky River flows 255 miles northwest to Ohio.

What to do:  Fish, paddle, float or motor your way along the river. Enjoy camping, hiking and picnicking along the Forks in the Daniel Boone National Forest.

Factoid: The Middle Fork had one of the first mixed pony-through metal truss bridges built in the state (1917).

Challenges: Watershed efforts to add crucial riparian buffer zones along the Forks and river continue to be difficult as development grows.

Get Involved:

  • Lower Howard’s Creek Nature and Heritage Preserve (lowerhowardscreek.org): “The primary purposes of the Preserve [240 acres immediately upstream from the confluence of the Creek and the Kentucky River] are to protect rare species, protect and interpret historical/archaeological resources, conduct scientific research, protect and restore natural communities and foster environmental education.”

Watauga River

Although the exact translation is lost in time, this river’s name is thought to mean “beautiful water” or possibly “the land beyond” in original Native American languages. Mountain peaks, crystal clear streams and rare mountain bog wetlands abound in Watauga’s relatively undisturbed river basin ecosystem.

Description: Flowing 78 miles northwest from North Carolina into Tennessee, this river possesses a variety of aquatic characteristics. Shallow waters rush over river stones; deep pools harbor fish; and whitewater races past limestone bluffs and their caves at Bee Cliff Rapids. Two dams impound reservoirs on the Tennessee side.

What to do: The daily cold-water release from Wilbur Dam makes the 16 miles of tailwater below a designated trophy location for rainbow and brown trout. Find wading spots in the upper waters.

Cross the river via the Appalachian Trail over Watauga Dam. And, the lake offers camping, picnicking, boating, swimming and other developed recreational activities.

The surrounding rare and disappearing wetland bogs are crucial for natural water purification processes.

Factoid: Wilbur Dam was the first hydroelectric construction in the state, going online in 1912. As one of the first recipients of the new technology, the city of Elizabethton, Tennessee was once known as the “City of Power.”

Challenges: The currently excellent water quality across the basin’s streams and bogs are in danger of contamination from pesticides, fertilizers, road salt and other human wastes transported via runoff waters.

Get Involved:

  • Watauga Riverkeeper (mountaintrue.org): “Key protector and watchdog of the Watauga River Basin in western North Carolina.”

Clinch River

Second only to the Amazon in concentrations of rare aquatic species, the Clinch is recognized as the most biodiverse river in the entirety of the Northern Hemisphere.

Description: This river flows for 300 miles in Virginia and Tennessee through the gigantic landform feature known as the Great Appalachian Valley. There are two dams that create navigable lakes upstream. River waters can be characterized as calm, cool and swift over much of the route.

What to do: Thirteen miles of tailwaters below Norris Dam are world-class trout fishing waters for rainbow, brook and brown. Paddle and float at various points with the option to snorkel in the clear waters. Boating, water skiing, swimming, camping, hiking and picnicking are popular at both lakes (with a small marina available on Norris Lake).

Factoid: From 1895 to 1936, Clinch River pearls were sought by buyers from around the world. These freshwater gems from river mussels came in a variety of shapes, colors and sizes—one found in 1903 was three-quarters of an inch long, egg-shaped and weighed 117.5 grains, making it the second largest in the world at the time.

Challenges: The country’s largest coal ash disaster in 2008 released 1.1 billion gallons of toxic slurry into the Clinch and Emory rivers when the wet storage pond dike breached. In 2015, the cleanup was declared complete, leaving homes, health and environmental systems forever altered.

Get Involved:

  • The Clinch River Valley Initiative (voicesforbiodiversity.org): “A collaborative effort in southwest Virginia, focusing on the Clinch River Valley – one of the most biodiverse river systems in North America.”

Holston River

Among the rivers we are visiting, this waterway has had measurable effects upon the livelihood and character of the nation. Its qualities, location and resources have all played crucial and varying roles in the successes (and failures) of human life.

Description: The Holston proper is formed by the confluence of miles of three main tributaries called the North, Middle and South forks. At 100 yards or more wide in places, this 136-mile river is mostly shallow, slow and outside the reach of water releases from hydroelectric dams. In Knoxville, it joins the French Broad River to create the headwaters of the Tennessee River.

What to do: Wading and floating are perfect plans for the Holston. Much of the riparian areas are privately owned lands, so a bit of research for ramps and access points is required.

The river is a lesser-known yet premier waterway for fly fishing. The upper 20 miles of the Cherokee Dam tailwaters are exceptional for rainbow and brown trout—with the chance to land one measuring over 20 inches.

Factoid: In the late 18th Century, the Holston River was viewed as Virginia’s southern boundary since the line had never been surveyed.

Challenges: By this summer, corrective measures and compliance with pollution permits must be completed by an ammunition plant in Kingsport, Tennessee.

Get Involved:

  • Legacy Parks Foundation (legacyparks.org): “We work collaboratively to preserve our natural area’s extraordinary natural resources and to expand parks, create trails and increase access to our rivers.”

North Toe River

Born in the mountains of western North Carolina, this meandering river is a (fairly) well-kept secret of natural beauty, environmental significance and long human history.

Description: With headwaters in Sugar Gap, it travels alongside U.S. Route 19E and traces the base of the eastern-facing mountains on its way to join the South Toe, Cane and Nolichucky rivers to the west. While technically classified as a “stream,” it’s the largest in the North Carolina high country.

What to do: Angling, swimming and paddling in cool summer waters, as well as snowy mountain winters attract visitors to the river valley. Hike maintained trails for scenic vistas. Fish in winter at the delayed-harvest section for rainbows, browns and brookies.

Challenges: A sewage leak and the illegal discharge of hundreds of gallons of hydrofluoric acid in 2018 near Spruce Pine closed the river nearby and killed fish in the area. Discharge permits for ongoing mine processing facilities continue to be a challenge. Ongoing efforts, such as the removal of a dilapidated concrete dam, extraction of a fallen train trestle, fencing livestock and restoration of native plants, are creating a healthier watershed for the Toe.

Get Involved:

  • Toe River Valley Watch (toerivervalley.org): “Works with local, regional, state and national partners for the sake of our region’s precious waterways and the future of the communities that depend on them.”

French Broad River

As the largest watercourse in western North Carolina, this river on its journey to Tennessee reminds us of our impact on nature and the tenacity required to make amends.

Description: Flowing north for 218 miles from North Carolina into Tennessee, the watershed for this river covers 4,000 miles of streams and tributaries. For 117 miles the waterway is a designated “blueway” or paddle trail in North Carolina. It is a designated state scenic river across the line in Tennessee. Near its lower end, Douglas Dam creates a large lake.

What to do: Enjoy swimming, fishing, kayaking and tubing on the water; hiking and camping at several primitive wilderness areas along the shores. Explore the thriving arts district and the completed portions of Asheville’s greenway system, aptly named The Wilma Dykeman RiverWay Plan.

Factoid: The headwaters are west of the Eastern Continental Divide; and its confluence with the Holston River forms the headwaters of the Tennessee River.

Challenges: During the first half of the 20th Century, the French Broad was the unfortunate recipient of negligent practices, human trash and pollution. Thanks to the author (and this writer’s former university professor) Wilma Dykeman, this devastating trajectory began to change with her stewardship novel, “The French Broad” (1955). As one of the first voices defending the health of the environment, she exposed the damages of logging, industrial dumping and “a half-dozen other related malpractices” (p. 289) into this watershed.

Current-day issues still remain. Potential leaching and/or failure of impoundments holding toxic coal ash, sewage bacteria, chemical runoff and petroleum product spills all continue to threaten the health of the French Broad. However, ongoing monitoring and dedicated efforts have greatly improved the overall health of this river.

Get Involved:

  • French Broad Riverkeeper (mountaintrue.org): “We value the integrity of natural systems—air, land, water and native plants and animals—and believe in protecting and restoring them for the benefit of all generations.”
  • Southern Alliance for Clean Energy (southeastcoalash.org): “We are a group of [seven] environmental and community organizations that have come together to focus on coal ash issues in the Southeast.”

Tuckasegee River

As one of the most easily accessible waterways at many points along its course, this river flows gently in synchronous rhythm with the ancient rolling mountains.

Description: Two counties in western North Carolina enjoy the 50-mile river affectionately called “The Tuck.” Granite domes, mountain vistas and rare southern Appalachian bog ecosystems are seen along the river.

What to do: Hike and see waterfalls across 10,000 acres of public land at the headwaters in Panthertown Valley. In and around The Tuck, 15 locations have been grouped and labeled as the first Fly Fishing Trail in the country—brooks, browns and rainbows await!

Also, this river is considered a good training ‘ground’ for learning your paddle skills. July sees the most rain (and river water), and October the least.

Ancient V-shaped fishing weir construction is still visible in several spots during low water levels.

The name of the river is often seen with various spellings and likely traces its lineage back to a Cherokee word (daksiyi), meaning “turtle place.”

Factoid: Horace Kephart, southern author known for his writings on early life and culture in Appalachia (“Our Southern Highlanders”), camped here in 1904.

Challenges: The removal of an antiquated and non-operational dam along with making several watershed enhancements returned the Dillsboro section to a free-flowing waterway. Ongoing efforts monitor the sedimentation, erosion and turbidity of the water systems.

Get Involved:

  • Watershed Association of the Tuckasegee River (watrnc.org): “A grassroots organization working to improve your water quality and habitat of the Tuckasegee River Basin.”

Ocoee/Toccoa River

The Ocoee is a tale of two rivers in one, dropping 1,370 feet in elevation. The headwaters in one state, calm and serene; the whitewater in another, roaring and fierce.

Description: The 93 miles of this northwesterly flowing river are known by two names. The 56 miles in Georgia are called the Toccoa, and the 37 miles in Tennessee are named the Ocoee. The initial waterway in Georgia is quite calm; and the dam-controlled Ocoee is (and has been) a world-class whitewater destination with three specific areas: Upper, Middle and Lower. The Upper section is five miles of raging water that should only be viewed from the shore for those of us without mad whitewater skills! The next five miles in the Middle section are solid Class III (some IV) with rapids named “Grumpy,” “Broken Nose,” “Moonshot,” “Hell’s Hole” and “Tablesaw.” The Lower waters quietly roll into Parksville Lake.

What to do: Float the Toccoa and/or spike your adrenalin on the Ocoee (individually or with one of the many professional rafting guide businesses). Hike or bike the Tanasi Trail System—20 miles of history, scenery and mountain terrain.

Visit the Ocoee Whitewater Center for riverside views, picnics, walkways with native plants and a pedestrian bridge over the water.

Factoid: The name “Ocoee” is credited to the Cherokee as their word for Passiflora incarnata—a native perennial vine now known as the wild apricot, maypop or purple passionflower (the state wildflower of Tennessee).

Challenges: In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, copper mining and smelting devastated the environment. The environmental reclamation efforts were started almost 100 years ago; and the area is still working to correct the damages.

Get Involved:

Nantahala River

The power of water on rock is no more evident than along an 8-mile stretch of this river in North Carolina, carving its gorge between 5,000-foot mountain peaks.

Description: Sheer rock cliffs (some reaching 2,000 feet tall) and deep forests hold in place the gentle, whitecapped waters of this 40-mile river. The water temperature is a frigid 45 degrees even on the hottest summer day. Why? The sun only completely lights the gorge floor at noon, hence the Cherokee name for “canyon (or land) of the noon-day sun.”

What to do: There are several maintained pull-outs to park as the road travels in tandem with the Nantahala. Continue your drive along paved and unimproved roads on this section of the Mountain Waters National Scenic Byway.

In addition to a mild yet thrilling whitewater experience and exceptional fly fishing, cross the river on a suspended bridge and photograph a waterfall from an accessible observation deck. In nearby towns, hop on a train for a scenic tour of the surrounding mountains. Or connect with the Appalachian Trail for a challenging switchback hike to see the views at the 5,062-foot summit of Cheoah Bald.

Challenges: A recent release of warm water by the dam’s energy company killed hundreds (some estimate thousands) of trout with the effect reaching several miles downstream. The integrity of the ecosystem affected by the dramatic temperature increase is still being monitored.

Get Involved:

  • Blue Ridge National Heritage Area (blueridgeheritage.com): “Steward of the living traditions of our region, protecting and promoting the unique music, crafts, outdoors, foodways and Cherokee culture unique to Western North Carolina.”

Chattahoochee River

The course of this waterway traces some of the Earth’s earliest geological timelines. When the river leaves the mountains and begins its journey to the Gulf of Mexico, it crosses the Atlantic Seaboard Fall Line—the meeting point of the Piedmont and Atlantic coastal plain and former seaside edge of the Gulf.

Description: The cold, clear and steady path of “The Hooch” starts as a mountain stream in the southern Blue Ridge of Georgia, flows to and through Atlanta, forms the southern half of the Alabama/Georgia state line, joins the Flint at the Florida line, and empties 430 miles away into the Gulf of Mexico.

What to do: The River Paddle Trail beginning south of Helen (GA) is 36 miles of perfect canoe or kayak paddling. Plan a visit to one of the 16 parks located along the river’s route.

Challenges: Water rights issues amongst the three states remain controversial with environmental concerns about the decrease of water reaching the gulf and its ecosystems at the forefront.

Get Involved:

  • Chattahoochee Riverkeeper (Chattahoochee.org): “An environmental advocacy organization dedicated solely to protecting and restoring the Chattahoochee River Basin.”