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As the Amtrak Cardinal rolls from Clifton Forge, Virginia to Charleston,West Virginia, sites and sights for exploration abound, both on the train and in the mountain towns along the way.
Andy Chabot
The Amtrak Cardinal pulls into tiny, historic Thurmond, West Virginia, from where travelers can arrange an exploration of the New River Gorge.
Travelers on Amtrak’s Cardinal train enjoy sights shared by few others. The perpetual midnight of mountain tunnels, close-ups of tumbling New River from the narrow bottom of New River Gorge, and the arching underbelly of New River Gorge Bridge, for instance.
Scenery was on my mind when I chose the Clifton Forge, Virginia to Charleston, West Virginia segment as my first Amtrak venture. The Cardinal snakes past some of the Virginias’ prettiest, most intriguing scenery. We see old springs resorts, the ghost-town site of the world’s longest poker game, and the opening of the legendarily deadly Hawk’s Nest Tunnel.
If you’re lucky enough to ride when a Collis Huntington Railroad Historical Society volunteer narrates, lean in. The stories are great.
When I boarded the train at 4 p.m. in Clifton Forge, folks traveling from Washington, D.C. had already been aboard five hours; those from Charlottesville just over two. Traveling coach isn’t exactly luxurious, but the amenities are better than on most airlines. Leg room, for instance. And free WiFi and electrical outlets for phones and laptops. Also room to roam. Several of my fellow passengers strolled from car to car making small talk and checking out the magazine offerings. Others noshed on fudge cake in the dining car as the Jackson, the Greenbrier, the New, and then the Kanawha rivers riffled past.
This was what I wanted: a road trip with food—and no distracting road.
On the 4.5-hour ride, I had the privilege of sitting beside volunteer historical narrator Joanna Dunlap. Volunteers usually narrate only eastbound trips from Charleston. Narrations aren’t scheduled for every easterly run, so Dunlap gave me a private running commentary about the sites we were passing.
She made sure I didn’t miss Humpback Bridge, Sandstone Falls, and Hawk’s Nest Dam, behind which the New River runs dry. She pointed out two renovated train stations in Covington—where Amtrak doesn’t stop. So why did I wait for the train in nearby Clifton Forge in a mobile unit without electricity or plumbing?
“It’s coming,” she said.
Turns out the CF waiting area will soon move to the 1906 C&O Building, now owned by CSX Corporation, owner of the tracks. As CSX’s poor cousin, Amtrak must occasionally pull to the side to let higher priority freight trains pass. This can create delays.
E. Duane Howard of Roanoke doesn’t mind because it gives him more time to enjoy the Amtrak experience.
“You’re not just traveling from point A to point B on Amtrak; you’re having an onboard experience, enjoying the sights and people you meet,” Howard says. “I always carry a deck of cards, and I welcome being seated at tables with others in the dining car. I like meeting people and hearing their stories.”
People do seem friendlier on Amtrak, where they’re relaxed and not defending their space. I met Amish couples, mothers with small children, grandmothers, inveterate adventurers, as well as “Super Conductor” L.L. Claytor, who’s worked on the Cardinal run for 47 years.
In the Virginias, the Cardinal operates on Sundays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, with eastbound trains arriving in the morning and westbound trains in the afternoon and evening. Hopping off and re-boarding requires a two- or three-night layover.
On my trip, the train stopped in the West Virginia communities of White Sulphur Springs, Alderson, Hinton, Prince, Thurmond and Montgomery. Although my destination was Charleston, I relished the idea of exploring Hinton and White Sulphur Springs by foot and catching the shuttle at Thurmond for a myriad of adventures on the gorge through an adventure company by the same name.
Adventuring Off
Thurmond, West Virginia. Travelers can pre-arrange with Adventures on the Gorge resort for a pickup at Thurmond or White Sulphur Springs. Adventures is known for its world-class whitewater rafting expeditions as well as rock climbing, ziplining, fishing, kayaking, caving and other experiences. In the off-season, guests fill their luxury and rustic cabins for yoga retreats, murder mystery weekends and food tastings.
“Traveling by train, guests can immediately begin recharging their batteries instead of worrying about traffic,” says Dave Arnold, Adventures co-founder and vice president. “Our guests who arrive by train seem a little more relaxed at check-in.”