The Bean Barn is Back

by

It was the longest six months in the recent history of Greeneville, Tennessee. For that agonizing period, a dish called Beans All the Way was no more.

In late June of last year, Jerry and Donna Hartsell, owners of The Bean Barn since 1981, entered into retirement. It looked as if Beans All the Way, which had been served since the 1950s when the restaurant was called Britt’s Grill, had reached its end.

Beans All the Way is as much a symbol of Greeneville as the cannonball church or the “Olde Towne Gate.” Romie and Zella Mae Britt started serving it when their employee, Reagan Walker, mixed some homemade beef stew into a bowl of lard-seasoned soup beans and topped it with chopped onions. It has been the centerpiece of the business ever since, from its era on Depot Street to its move into the old Still’s Grocery building on East Church. Britt’s Grill and The Bean Barn had been in the same family, at least indirectly, for well over half a century.

In late December of 2019, the business opened its doors once again. Gary Hoese, a longtime Bean Barn customer and owner of a paint and body shop, has resurrected The Bean Barn.

The lights are brighter, the paint is new, and there’s a shiny new stainless steel hood over the grill. But amid all the renovations and refurbishing, Gary kept some things just as they were. He’s still using the old grill. Most important of all, he has kept the menu pretty much the same. Beans All the Way is back, still flavored with that homemade beef stew, still dressed with those chopped onions, and still accompanied by a square of cornbread or a stack of light bread.

The Bean Barn’s role in building community has been restored. It’s an egalitarian place, one that draws folks from a fascinating blend of backgrounds and professions. They seek not only nourishment but also connection. There’s talk of Little League records and the health of grandparents, of property tax deadlines and upcoming weddings.

When my bowl of Beans All the Way was placed on the counter recently and I was able to order a glass of buttermilk like I always have, I knew The Bean Barn hadn’t just been reopened, it had been revived.

The Bean Barn

515 East Church Street

Greeneville, Tennessee