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The story below is an excerpt from our May/June 2017 issue. For the rest of this story and more like it subscribe today, log in to read our digital edition or download our FREE iOS app. Thank you!
Longing to get out onto our mountains’ many miles of the Great Trail? Here’s how to touch the AT with a few miles and still be based at a great place for relaxing, dining, sleeping—maybe spending the weekend.
While some get their kicks hiking the Appalachian Trail all at once, for the rest of us, it’s best enjoyed in little sections. The following seven hikes will get you out on the Great Trail, trekking over a mountain and through some woods, but with one key proviso: They are all near a destination-worthy overnight accommodation. So yes, a hike, but also shuttle services where needed, fine dining, cold brews and other sips, and a great place to fall asleep thinking about your walk.
Let’s start at the northern end of our coverage states’ AT miles, where the hikes are especially short and the stays especially rewarding.
WEST VIRGINIA: Harpers Ferry
Stay: The Jackson Rose Bed & Breakfast. This historical B&B was originally built in 1795 and draws its name from the fact that, at the onset of the American Civil War, it served as the headquarters for “Stonewall” Jackson. In a letter to his wife, the then-colonel commented upon the beauty of the property’s pink climbing roses—hence the Jackson Rose. Rooms are furnished with antiques, completing the historical theme. Lodgings start at $140. thejacksonrose.com
Dine: Bisou Bistro at the Canal House. Housed in a brick building dating to the 1790s, the Bisou’s menu changes seasonally according to availability of local produce. Owner/Executive Chef Kevin Plunkett specializes in crafting classic New Orleans Cajun and Creole French cuisine. We recommend the Cajun Jambalaya, which, according to Plunkett, features “onions, bell peppers, celery, Tasso, sausage, chicken, tomatoes, jalapenos and garlic, combined with a rich stock and simmered for hours with just the right amount of rice folded in and served with sauce piquant.” thebisoubistro.com
Hike: The AT passes right through the neat and very small historical town of Harpers Ferry, and, heading northward, will carry you across a repurposed railroad bridge over the Potomac River, from which you can see the confluence with the Shenandoah River. You’ll hike along the old C&O towpath (now paved), then climb upward toward the Weverton Cliffs for 180-degree views of the river. The walk is about 4.5 miles to the cliffs.
Additionally, once you cross the river, you can head in the opposite direction along the C&O bike path to the Maryland Heights trail across Harpers Ferry Road. Follow the trail and stay right at the fork, taking the Overlook Cliffs Trail, which culminates in a spectacular view of the town. From the bridge and back, the walk is a little over four miles.
Shuttle: Teahorse Hostel provides rides to and from area trailheads starting as low as $10. teahorsehostel.com
VIRGINIA: Shenandoah National Park
Stay #1—Skyland Resort.
Resting atop a 3,680-foot peak at milepost 41.7 of Skyline Drive, this 178-room resort features some of the best bedside views the East Coast has to offer. First established in 1885 by George Freeman Pollock, Skyland catered to affluent northerners seeking luxurious amenities in an isolated mountain setting. For a post-hike treat, try a guided horseback tour. Rooms start at $95. goshenandoah.com
Dine: Pollock Dining Room + Mountain Taproom. The former serves American-style farm-to-table fixings, while the latter has craft brews on tap and offers fresh brewed coffee and espresso as well. Throughout the spring, summer and fall, look for nightly live entertainment in the Taproom.
Hike: For a great .8-mile quickie, leave the lodge and head for the AT, proceeding northward until you hang a left on Stony Man Trail, which you’ll follow to the 4,011-foot summit. Augment the journey by following the lariat trail back to the AT, heading northward, then turning onto the Passamaquoddy Loop, which will carry you back to the lodge, and bring up your journey to around 3.4 miles.
For a longer hike, proceed Southward on the AT for 4.3 miles to 3,600-foot Hawksbill Mountain for views and a picnic.
Stay #2—Big Meadows Lodge.
Located at milepost 51 of Skyline Drive near—you guessed it—a big mountaintop meadow. Built in 1939 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, with an elevation of 3,500 feet, the lodge features spectacular views of the Shenandoah Valley and is famous for its night sky viewing. There are 25 rooms in the main lodge, with 71 additional rooms provided in small cabins, multi-use buildings and suites. Rooms start at $98 and hikers’ discounts are available.
Dine: Spottswood Dining Room + New Market Taproom. The former offers basic southern-style cuisine like barbeque and fried chicken. Taproom features live family-friendly entertainment nightly, and has craft brews on tap. goshenandoah.com/lodging/big-meadows-lodge
Hike: From the lodge, you can take Blackrock Trail .2 mile to the Blackrock overlook for great Shenandoah Valley views. From there, hang a right on the AT and head northward until you see the sign for Lewis Creek Falls, whereupon you’ll turn left. You’ll climb gently uphill until you reach the 81-foot falls. Continue past the falls until the trail reconnects with the AT, then head north back to the lodge. Total, the loop is 3.4 miles.
