THE DRIVE

Nestled against West Virginia are three Virginia counties where birding is a priority, maple-syrup making is an art, springs are warm and town walking tours are (or should be) required. The counties of Highland, Bath and Alleghany offer driving, birding, sugar, walking and hiking tours – something for any interest.

A WESTERN VIRGINIA TOUR:
Virginia's Allegheny Highlands

(from the 2003 Almanac)
By D.Gail Fleenor

Begin your three-county tour at Monterey in Highland County, high in the Allegheny Mountains, at the crossroads of U.S. 220 and 250. The county has been called “ Virginia’s Switzerland” and the town was named in tribute to President Zachary Taylor’s victory at the Battle of Monterrey in Mexico. Although small (population just over 200), Monterey is filled with historic homes and buildings. A walking tour features Tally-Ho, built in 1859 as a log house later enlarged as a tourist home and occupied during the Civil War; The Crow’s Nest, a Victorian residence in the Italianate Tuscan Villa style built in 1908; and Peterson’s Store, a 1903 three-story, well-preserved general store still in operation.

Birding tours in Highland County include the Bluebird Trail on U.S. 220 south to the Bath County line (bluebird boxes line the route) and the scenic Bullpasture Valley Trail (from Monterey, follow U.S. 250 east to McDowell, turn right on Va. 678 and follow the route through Bullpasture Valley to Williamsville, turn left on Va. 614 and follow a well-graded, gravel road through Cowpasture Valley, at 250 turn west to return to Monterey). Or, take a tour of maple sugar camps throughout the county. Syrup is produced in late-winter or early-spring so warm clothing and boots are advisable. Camps include Eagle Sugar Camp north of McDowell and Sugar Tree Country Store & Sugar House.

Head south on U.S. 220 to visit Bath County. Visitors (including Thomas Jefferson) have been drawn to the warm mineral springs of this county for more than 200 years. Today, you can “take the baths” at sites in the towns of Warm Springs or Hot Springs. Both towns are bird sanctuaries with more than 30 species available for the viewing. Other birding trails include Lake Moomaw’s Bolar Mountain Recreation Area, where boating, camping, hiking and fishing are other options (U.S. 220 to Warm Springs, Va. 39W to 600 S; 540/839-2521). Warm Springs is also home to the Garth Newel Music Center (877/558-1689, ).

A walking tour of Warm Springs includes Three Hills, an Italianate mansion built by Mary Johnston, a Virginia novelist/feminist of the early 20th cenury and the Anderson Cottage with four original log rooms that served as a tavern in the 18th century. The cottage is now a bed and breakfast (540/839-5346).

Head to Hot Springs to visit The Homestead, a Georgian-style hotel on 15,000 acres with three championship golf courses, a ski school, Olympic-sized skating rink, European-style spa plus 500 elegant rooms for guests (1-800-838-1766, ). The Homestead has welcomed guests since 1766 when it was only a rustic lodge that accommodated 15 guests who wished to take the waters.

Head south again on U.S. 220 to visit Alleghany County and Covington. Just west of town off U.S. 60 is Humpback Bridge, built in 1857 and said to be the oldest remaining covered bridge in the state. The 100-foot-long bridge is four feet higher at its center than on either end, hence its name. Next, visit downtown Covington, home to The Craft Shops, a regional craft market. Nearby Clifton Forge is home to the Chesapeake and Ohio Historical Society and the Alleghany Highlands Arts & Crafts Center.

Birding trails lead to Lake Moomaw/Gathright Dam and Douthat State Park. Located on the Bath County line, the park offers camping, fishing and 40 miles of wooded hiking trails from easy to strenuous. Buck Lick Interpretive Trail and two trails that lead around Douthat Lake are good for leisurely strolls with binoculars (540/862-8100).

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