In the not-too-distant past, West Virginia’s New River Gorge was known for two things: The spectacular view from Hawk’s Nest State Park and the interminably twisting two-lane mountain roads that had to be negotiated to reach it. Woe unto you if you got behind a coal truck crawling uphill. Terror unto you if one came barreling downhill, inches from your back bumper.
The views and the trucks are still around, but construction of four-lane U.S. 19 and I-64, and the establishment of the New River Gorge National River changed the area’s image. The gorge is now known for great rock climbing, BASE jumping from the world’s second highest arch bridge (on the third Sunday in Octobers), and arguably the country’s best whitewater rafting down the New and Gauley Rivers. (This reminds me of a bad joke from my childhood: Do you know how the New and Gauley rivers got their names? Well, many years ago some Native Americans were paddling up the Kanawha River when they came to a confluence and one of them shouted out, “Golly, a new river!”)
What’s often overlooked are the 50+ miles of trails coursing the national river’s 70,000 acres. The best place to begin any exploration is at the Canyon Rim Visitor Center to obtain maps, brochures, and other information. Close by, the 2.5-mile Endless Wall Trail and two short, accessible pathways lead to overlooks of the bridge spanning the 1,000-foot deep gorge.
Upstream, Thurmond is located within a few feet of the river. During the coal boom days, the town boasted opera houses, hotels, saloons, and more than 400 residents. More than a dozen passenger trains a day came through town, with the depot serving as many as 95,000 customers a year. Today, it has a population of fewer than 10 and a park service visitor center inside a restored train depot. (The movie “Matewan” was filmed here. Check out the video – it’s an excellent portrayal of miners’ struggles in the early 1900s.)
The six-mile Brooklyn-Southside Junction Trail emanates from the depot and passes through once bustling, but now abandoned, mining communities. The 3.4-mile Thurmond-Minden Trail crosses five railroad trestles, providing views of the river and Thurmond.
On the south side of the canyon, the Kaymoor Miner’s Trail provides additional insight into bygone days. The upper town of Kaymoor, of which there is little evidence, had more than 100 single-family dwellings, with a population of more than 500. The trail follows the route of the Kaymoor Haulage, a 250-foot cable car that carried 15 people at a time to the mine opening near the gorge floor. You now make the descent on hundreds of steps, under which you can still see the cable car’s tracks. Come to the end of the staircase and you walk into what feels like a Tarzan “Lost City” setting. Cement blocks, tipple, valves, old equipment, and buildings have trees and vines growing over, and sometimes through, them.
The national river’s trails are not just about history. The Kaymoor Miner’s Trail passes through hemlock and rhododendron thickets and by an attractive waterfall. Pathways in the appropriately named Grandview area skirt the canyon rim with vistas from the national river’s highest point. Standing at 2,500 feet above sea level, your eyes can take in seven miles of the gorge, with the river flowing close to 1,100 feet below you. The scene is one of the most photographed spots along the New River. This is also one of the best places in West Virginia to revel in the glories of autumn’s leaf colors. Spring is pretty nice too, with fire pink, flame azalea, and Indian cucumber root springing forth from the sun-warmed soil.
Hike the trails farther upriver if you are in the mood for ruggedness and isolation. You can stay in the highlands along the Kates Plateau and Polls Plateau Trails (both are more than six miles long), where routes may not always be obvious and the park service recommends using topographic maps and compass. If you fear getting lost, take the six-mile Glade Creek Trail that descends the trout-stocked stream to the river’s edge.
Another Good Gorge Trail
The recently completed Ansted-Hawks Nest Rail Trail winds down the side of the New River Gorge for 2.5 miles from the small town of Ansted to the churning waters of the river. The pathway follows the route of a railroad once used to haul coal from mines around the town. Open to hikers and bicyclists, it descends at a gentle grade, making it possibly the easiest trail into the gorge. There is no doubt it is one of the most scenic, as it passes by two waterfalls, precipitous cliffs, interesting rock formations, and over two reconstructed wooden trestles. Obtain more information from the Midland Trail Scenic Highway Association, 405 Capitol St., Charleston, W.Va. 25301, 304/343-6001; www.midlandtrail.com. Along the Tackle
Bring
The New River is famous for its quality of bass fishing, especially smallmouth bass. Anglers also come here in the hope of landing walleyes, blue gills, catfish, musky, and more. Three of the most popular spots are Stone Cliff near Thurmond, and McCreery and Glade Creek close to Prince. If you would like to have the expertise of a local guide, contact New River Outfitters, P. O. Box 968, Crab Orchard, W.Va. 25827, 1-877-982-3474; www.small-mouth.com. Lazy?
Feeling
Don’t want to walk down and up the Ansted-Hawks Nest Rail Trail? Hawks Nest State Park’s aerial tram can deliver you to – or take you from – the trail’s lower end at the base of the gorge. You could also take in the arts, crafts, entertainment, and food at the park’s Country Roads Festival during the third weekend of September.
P. O. Box 857, Ansted, W.Va. 25812, 304/658-5212; www.hawksnestsp.com.
A Reason to Linger
In addition to the soaring vistas, there is an additional reason to visit Grandview. For decades, Theatre West Virginia has been presenting two excellent outdoor musical dramas in the Amphitheater during the summer months. “Honey in the Rock” is a dramatization of West Virginia’s birth during the Civil War, and “Hatfields and McCoys” is an account of the state’s most famous feud. Hurry if you want to see a production this year – the season ends Sept. 3. 1-800-666-9142, 304/256-6800; www.theatrewestvirginia.com.
IF YOU GO
- The Hikes: A variety of trails of varying lengths and difficulties take you along the edge of the New River Gorge and down to the river.
- Directions: The New River Gorge National River Canyon Rim Visitor Center is located on U.S. 19, two miles north of Fayetteville and five miles south of the US 19/U.S. 60 intersection at Hico. A brochure showing the location of the various trails may be obtained here.
- Trail Information: More information about the national river and the trails may be acquired by contacting New River Gorge National River, P. O. Box 246, Glen Jean, W.Va. 25846, 304/465-0508; www.ns.gov/neri.
